The Line and Drape of Dress Pants

Special attention should be paid on the line of the dress pants and its drape. The line of the pants should always be following the contours of the body. It will naturally flow with from the hips to the ends with a subtle taper.

Drape of the pants over your lower body should always be smooth (no bulge or horizontal creasing especially under the waist area and thigh area).

When fitting into pleated pants, we should expect continuous smoothness in the drape where the pleats are not stretched when standing. For plain or flat front pants, the pockets should lie flat from the sides. No puckering should be seen for a flat front.

It should be able to accommodate the fullness of the thighs. The pants have to float over your legs. It must not flare like hip-hop pants or hug your legs skin tight.

For stout men or even heavier men with larger thighs, pleated pants have more cloth around the waist and thigh areas. This leads to an illusion of more weight around the abdomen and legs.

Instead wearing a flat front dress pants can create a more slimming effect than pleated ones. The overall men’s dress pants fit, therefore, should compliment the built of the man as well. A general guideline on the measurements of my bespoke dress pants are 31 inches waist, then flowing to 21 inches around the knees and about 19 inches at the bottom. The taper is so subtle that it can not be noticed visually instead a nice drape is being created. This fitting criterion allows a good men’s dress pants fit for most men even for the short and stout ones.